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Avian
Health Care Recommendations
by Dr.
Greg Burkett
Board
Certified Avian Veterinarian
1.
Have a complete work up performed on your bird every
year. This annual exam should include a physical exam, complete blood
count
(CBC), microbiological culture or gram stain of the cloaca, and
vaccinations.
2.
Some species of birds need additional testing: a. All
cockatoos and lovebirds should be tested once for Psittacine Beak and
Feather
Disease (PBFD); all birds thought to have been exposed to PBFD should
also be
tested. b. All amazons, budgies, rose-breasted cockatoos, and macaws
need to
have cholesterol levels checked annually. Cholesterol should be
monitored in
all birds on a high fat diet (like seeds). c. All South American
species need
to have an examination performed every six months to look for signs of
papillomatosis. d. All birds should have a full chemistry panel and
survey
radiographs on file before the age of 5 years. Having normal values on
file
will allow for easier health monitoring as your bird ages and early
detection
of disease and other problems.
3. All
birds, whether individual pet or breeder, need to be
vaccinated annually against Avian Polyomavirus.
4.
Learn to recognize a sick bird. Birds are very adept at
hiding their signs of illness. Most commonly the first signs go
unnoticed.
Usually the first signs include changes in behavior, e.g. decreased
activity
level or decreased vocalization. If you recognize that your bird is
sick, it is
an emergency situation. Immediately put a heating pad on your bird\'s
cage and
call your avian veterinarian. Other signs of illness include: a.
Decreased
appetite - Remember that birds will pretend that they are eating, so
don\'t be
fooled. b. Diarrhea or persistent abnormal droppings c. Too much fluid
in the
droppings (polyuria) d. Fluffed e. Sitting on the cage bottom f.
Coughing,
sneezing, abnormal breathing sounds g. Tail bobbing h. Weight loss i.
Regurgitating, vomiting j. Change in water intake k. Weakness, Ataxia
l.
Abnormal behaviors or vocalizations
5. Do
not use Over-the-Counter (OTC) medications in your
bird\'s water as treatment for illness. These medications are
ineffective
against avian pathogens and will only mask disease symptoms. Birds can
become
worse with OTC medications and veterinarians have a more difficult time
diagnosing the disease properly.
Avian
Health Care Recommendations
avhealcarrec
How
and Why to Switch Your Bird to a Pelleted Diet
by Dr
Greg Burkett
Board
Certified Avian Veterinarian
Why?
Diet
is the most important factor in your bird\'s life. A
poor diet can be the underlying cause of many health problems.
Improved
Health & Appearance By supplying vitamins and
minerals that are deficient in seeds
Consistent
Quality & Cleanliness By using high quality
ingredients and steam pelleting to eliminate harmful bacteria and fungi
Less
Waste & Mess By providing 100% edible product, we
are eliminating the 20-70% of inedible hulls that make up seed mixes
Eliminates
Guesswork Roudybush pellets and crumbles are
formulated specifically for your pet bird
Up-to-Date
Knowledge & Improvements Roudybush diets were
developed through decades of field research in pet bird nutrition
How?
Pellets
are the only diet that can offer complete and
balanced nutrition. Your bird\'s diet should be at least 90% pellets.
The
remaining 10% can be any treat. Fruits, vegetables, pasta, rice, beans,
seed,
and many other foods are acceptable treats. Persistence is the key to a
better
diet for your bird. You must first believe that you are doing the best
for your
bird. If you will follow this method your bird will be eating pellets
in two to
four weeks.
1. You
need to have two food bowls in the cage. One bowl
should be near the highest perch. The other bowl should be lower, near
the cage
bottom. In the high cup put Roudybush. The Roudybush bowl is to stay in
the
cage as the high bowl at all times. In the lower bowl put seeds or your
bird\'s
usual diet.
2.
When giving seeds in the lower dish, give only enough
seed that can be eaten in one sitting. I recommend giving only 1
tablespoon of
seeds. Fill the Roudybush bowl half way.
3.
Seeds are to be given in the morning and in the evening.
Afternoon, the seed bowl is removed, and a treat is offered. This treat
can be
any of the above mentioned foods. If your bird does not eat other
foods,
another dish of seed should be given. The process will take longer if
this is
the case. Do Not Mix Pellets With Seeds.
4. A
routine should now be established: Small amount of
seeds in the morning and evening, a treat in the afternoon, and
Roudybush
available at all times. Maintain this routine for 1 week. Meanwhile,
observe
your bird to see if he is consuming the pellets.
5.
When you notice that he is eating pellets, then
discontinue the seeds in the morning. Instead, give Roudybush in the
lower bowl
(and in the higher bowl), give the treat in the afternoon and give the
evening
seed meal, but give fewer seeds at this time.
6.
Continue to observe your bird and weigh him if possible.
If you determine that your bird is consuming pellets consistently and
maintaing
his weight, then we recommend that you discontinue the seeds completely
and
continue monitoring
7.
Utilize the following coaxing hints to assist you in this
conversion.
Some
Helpful Hints to Coax Conversion:
A) It
helps to role play with your bird when you are trying
to get him to try new things. You can pretend to be eating the new food
and
that you are very excited. Then offer some of it to your housemate in
front of
your bird. When you see your bird is interested, then offer him some.
B)
Birds prefer to eat in flocks. At meal times bring your
bird out of the cage to dine with you. Have a bowl of Roudybush at the
table to
offer your bird and to pretend to eat and pass around to the other
flock
members. Your bird can also be given some of your table food at this
time.
At
this point your bird can be considered to be on
Roudybush. You should wait for at least a several days before giving
seed as a
treat until you know there is full conversion without fear of
de-conversion
back to seed.
Some
Important Points to Consider:
A) It
is very important to monitor your bird\'s droppings
during and after the conversion process. If the droppings turn to a
dark green
or black, then it is an indication that he is not eating enough. At
this point
give a little more seed or the bird\'s usual diet, and simply prolong
the
converting process.
B) The
droppings will change during the conversion. This
should not be alarming. The droppings may become loose or watery and
may change
color. These changes are temporary, but, if they persist, then call
your avian
veterinarian.
By
converting your bird to a pelleted diet, you will be
adding several years to his life span and enhancing that life by
preventing
many nutritionally related health problems. Your bird will look and act
healthier. The feathers will be brilliantly colored with fewer stress
marks. In
short, putting your bird on pellets will be the best thing you can ever
do for
you bird.
How
and Why to Switch Your Bird to a Pelleted Diet
switch
What
is Disinfecting and Why Should I Do It?
by Dr
Greg Burkett
Board
Certified Avian Veterinarian
The
message that I would like to convey with this handout is
that disinfection and routine sanitation are the cornerstones to a
healthy pet
bird. These two components of a daily care program add very little time
to an
owner\'s chores, but contributes tremendously to a bird\'s overall
health. A good
sanitation program is one of the major ingredients in an all-around
excellent
preventative health program and is equal in importance to sound
nutrition and
psychological stimulation.
Disinfection
by definition is the act of freeing something
from the presence of disease-causing organisms. These organisms include
bacteria, fungi, yeast, viruses, and Chlamydia. Organisms such as these
are
found abundantly in the environment in which our birds and we live. A
healthy
immune system is he first line of defense against these diseases. A
healthy
immune system depends on proper nutrition, a good health status, and a
clean
environment. Even with a healthy immune system, an overload of
disease-causing
organisms or a constant, low-grade exposure to disease-causing
organisms can
lead to an infection.
To
help your bird maintain a healthy immune system you
should feed mainly a formulated (pelleted) diet with fresh food
supplements,
and prevent disease exposure through proper sanitation and lowered
exposure to
disease-carrying birds. Proper sanitation includes washing water
bottles, fresh
food bowls, cages, and cage accessories regularly with water and a mild
detergent, then disinfecting them with a safe, effective disinfectant.
Regularly means daily for the fresh food and water bowls and weekly for
the
cage and accessories. We have spare dishes so there is a clean dish in
the cage
while the dirty dish is soaking in the disinfectant solution. The
disinfectant
should be rinsed afterwards to insure that there are no residues. See
the
particular disinfectant label for specific use directions.
What
is Disinfecting and Why Should I Do It?
oxnoldis
Water
Bottles and Birds
by Dr
Greg Burkett
Board
Certified Avain Veterinarian
One of
the most common health problems that veterinarians
encounter in birds is bacterial infection. And, the most common source
for
infection is the water bowl.
An
open dish is a breeding ground for bacteria. Most birds
will poop or dunk food in their water dish. These organic materials
feed the
bacteria and cause them to grow even faster. Bacterial growth is
measured in
doubling time - the time it takes for bacteria to double in number.
Doubling
time for many bacteria is 2-3 hours. This means that when you put a
clean water
dish in the cage at 9:00 AM, by 1:00 PM there is enough bacteria
growing in the
water to potentially cause illness, even in a healthy bird. This
situation is
completely avoided when using water bottles.
When
putting the bottle on your bird’s cage, mount it above
a perch the height of your bird’s head. Be sure to fill the
bottle completely
to prevent leaking. One or two drops will escape to form the vacuum.
Switching
your bird is very easy. After all, hamsters drink
from a bottle and we all know that birds are much more intelligent than
hamsters. It is my theory that birds are able to smell water. Simply
showing
birds where the bottle is in the cage will be enough to get them to
switch.
Just tap the little ball on the end of the drinker when your bird is
watching.
The noise and bubbles will make your bird curious. When your bird beaks
the
ball, water will come out and your bird will immediately be on a
bottle. If
not, then remove the water dish in the morning. In the evening offer
your bird
water in a dish. If your bird does not drink form the dish, then it
probably
drank from the bottle during the day. If it does drink from the dish
then it
likely did not drink from the bottle during the day. Repeat
demonstrating the
bottle to your bird until you are comfortable that your bird is
drinking during
the day. Nearly all birds will drink during the first day.
The
bottle must be changed every day. The bottle and tube
need to be scrubbed and disinfected daily.
One of
the most often concerns expressed is that \'My bird
likes to wet its food\'. No problem. Birds can still wet its food with
the
bottled. Candy, our resident Congo African grey nearly always wets her
pellets
and treats. She simply gets the food in her beak and then drinks from
the
bottle.
There
is no reason not to put your bird on a bottle.
You
Need an Avain Veterinarian, Now.
Dr
Greg Burkett
Board
Certified Avian Veterinarian
Maintaining
your bird\'s health with proper nutrition,
suitable environments, and mental stimulation is vitally important. The
general
health of your bird should also be a concern. Avian medicine is
advancing
rapidly. It has been recently estimated that our knowledge of avian
medicine
and surgery is doubling every five years. This means that avian
veterinarians
are more equipped with cutting-edge technology, more blood tests,
better
diagnostic tools, and access to more reference material than ever
before. If
your bird becomes ill, the chances are better than ever that a cause
will be
found and treatments can be prescribed. We have advanced medically to
lengthen
the pet bird\'s life by many years. However, you should not wait until
your bird
is ill to see your veterinarian. The key to a long healthy life for
your parrot
is regular preventative check ups.
The
recommended schedule for good-health maintenance is once
annually. Regular visits will establish normal parameters for your
bird. It is
important that your veterinarian be familiar with your bird in a state
of good
health to more easily recognize problems. An important part of an
annual
examination is the physical exam. A physical will provide your bird\'s
body
weight, a critical gauge in measuring health status. When a bird is
sick, the
body weight will decrease before any other clinical signs appear. The
physical
exam will also provide visual clues to a trained professional that
reveal
subclinical signs a bird may be trying to hide. The physical exam is
only part of
the annual check up. Blood work, bacterial cultures, and fecal gram
stains
provide the necessary information to establish normal values and to
screen for
subclinical disease. The most important part of a preventative
maintenance
program is annual vaccination against polyomavirus. Annual visits are
also a
good time to get wing clips and toe nail trims.
A
preventative maintenance program will provide our pet bird
with the longest, healthiest life possible. A good program consists of
a
balanced diet, a clean environment, a roomy cage, proper handling
techniques,
and proper veterinary care including annual check ups and vaccinations.
You
Need an Avian Veterinarian, Now.
youneedavvet
Lead
Toxicosis
by Dr.
Greg Burkett
Board
Certified Avian Veterinarian
Lead
poisoning (also known as Plumbism) is the most common
toxicosis in children. It is also very common in pet birds. There are a
number
of potential sources for lead in our environment (see inset). Lead
poisoning is
a very serious condition and requires immediate attention from a
qualified
avian veterinarian. The prognosis is very good if treated immediately.
The
clinical signs that are associated with lead toxicosis
are nonspecific and the severity can vary depending on the amount of
lead
ingested and the length of time of exposure. Symptoms are associated
with the
gastrointestinal (GI), urinary and nervous systems. GI signs include
dark green
to black droppings (that may or may not be diarrheic), vomiting,
regurgitation,
anorexia and pasted vent. Urinary signs include polyuria (excessive
urine
production), blood in the urine, and increased thirst. Neurological
signs
include depression, weakness, ataxia (staggering) head tilt, circling,
blindness, and seizures.
Diagnosis
of lead poisoning may not be easy or
straightforward. Diagnosis may be based on a history of lead ingestion
and
carefully searching for possible sources of lead exposure. It is also
based on
observation of clinical signs and a thorough physical examination to
reveal GI,
urinary, and neurological symptoms. Laboratory testing is a very
important tool
used to diagnose lead poisoning. Blood should be drawn to measure lead
levels,
to do a complete blood count and to do blood chemistries.
Radiographs
can also be important in the diagnosis of
plumbism. The veterinarian will assess the films for the presence of
metal
opacities in the GI tract and other locations. However, radiographs do
not
definitively diagnose lead poisoning. The lead may already be dissolved
in the
bird\'s tissues, it may have been excreted, or it may have been inhaled
in the
form of gas fumes, thereby making visible detection impossible. Also,
the
presence of metal may be nonlead metal particles.
If
lead poisoning is suspected then treatment should begin
immediately. Treatment consists of supportive care (fluids, heat,
nutritional
supplements and antibiotics) and chelation therapy.
Calcium
EDTA is used as a chelating agent, given
intramuscularly, and continued until the lead is gone. If the lead
particles
are confined to the GI tract, then agents such as peanut butter,
Metamucil or
mineral oil may be given to aid in passing the particles. If the lead
particles
are large, then surgery is required to go in and remove them, provided
the bird
is stable and able to withstand the surgical procedure.
In
most cases if the lead is completely removed from the
bird\'s system, then the bird should fully recover. However, with
extensive
chronic exposure the likelihood of recovery is lessened and the bird
may not
survive at all. A few survivors will have permanent kidney, liver or
neurological damage.
Plumbism
is a serious condition and needs immediate
attention. It is seen very commonly in many avian veterinary practices.
Responsible pet bird owners should thoroughly examine their homes for
sources
of lead to remove them or prevent access to them by the bird.
Sources
of Lead
Stained
Glass Frames, Tiffany Lamps, Some Bell Clappers,
Curtain Weights, Glazed Ceramics, Fishing Weights, Batteries, Putty,
Plaster,
Gasoline Fumes (Chronic Exposure), Champagne & Wine Bottle
Foil, Linoleum,
Costume Jewelry, Mirror Backing, Shot, Bullets, Pellets, Old Paint,
Exercise
Weights, Wire Solder, Weighted Toys (e.g. bobbing plastic penguin),
Scuba
Weights, Sheetrock, Base of Light Bulbs, Dolomite, Bone Meal Products,
Lead
Poisoning
leadpoisoning
Learn
How to recognize a SICK BIRD
BY Dr.
Greg Burkett
Learn
to recognize a sick bird. Birds are very adept at hiding their signs of
illness. Most commonly the first signs go unnoticed. Usually the first
signs
include changes in behavior, e.g. decreased activity level or decreased
vocalization. If you recognize that your bird is sick, it is an
emergency
situation. Immediately put a heating pad on your bird\'s cage and call
your
avian veterinarian. Other signs of illness include:
a.
Decreased appetite - Remember that birds
will pretend that they are eating, so don\'t be fooled.
b.
Diarrhea or persistent abnormal droppings
c.
Too much fluid in the droppings (polyuria)
d.
Fluffed
e.
Sitting on the cage bottom
f.
Coughing, sneezing, abnormal breathing
sounds
g.
Tail bobbing
h.
Weight loss
i.
Regurgitating, vomiting
j.
Change in water intake
k.
Weakness, Ataxia
l.
Abnormal behaviors or vocalizations
5.
Do
not use Over-the-Counter (OTC) medications in your bird\'s water as
treatment
for illness. These medications are ineffective against avian pathogens
and will
only mask disease symptoms. Birds can become worse with OTC medications
and
veterinarians have a more difficult time diagnosing the disease
properly.
Avian
Health Care Recommendations
GROOMING
YOUR BIRD BY Dr. Greg Burkett
Grooming
your bird includes trimming its wings and nails,
filing its beak, preening your bird and bathing your bird. Grooming
your bird
gives you a chance to spend quality time with your bird and helps you
to form a
stronger bond with your pet.
Clipping
your bird\'s wings serves several purposes. The
taming process is much easier and faster with their wings clipped and
you have
better control over your bird while taming it. Wing trimming will also
prevent
your bird from flying into objects such as windows or mirrors and
injuring
itself.
Although
wing clipping is necessary for all pet birds, it
does remove one of the exercise modalities that birds depend on.
Therefore, it
is important for you as a responsible bird owner to offer your bird an
alternative exercise method. We recommend a cage large enough for your
bird to
climb around in, with several different toys to encourage play. We also
feel it
is important that you have your bird out of its cage as often as
possible. A
good place for the bird to play when it is out of its cage is on a
playpen.
There are several different varieties on the market now. Some companies
will
even custom build them to your specifications. Avian Treasures custom
builds
great playpens and offers several types for birds of all sizes. A
playpen
provides your bird with a place of his own where he can exercise and
play
without being confined to his cage. Birds with clipped wings will
almost always
stay on their playpens, especially if the playpen offers a lot to keep
them
occupied.
Several
different methods of wing clipping are in print and
everyone has their own opinion on the correct method. The method we
have found
that works the best is to clip the outer primaries of BOTH wings, below
the
level of the primary coverts. The number to remove on each side varies
with
species as well as individually. The primaries must be cut because they
are the
feathers that give lift when the bird flaps its wings. The secondary
flight
feathers should be left intact to give some air resistance in case the
bird
falls. It is important to trim both wings so the bird is able to
maintain its
balance. We do not recommend plucking the feathers because they will
grow back
out in six weeks and it is a very uncomfortable experience for the
bird. It is
important to remember that clipped feathers will molt out and new ones
will
replace them within a few months. When the new feathers grow in they
contain a
pulp consisting of blood vessels and nerves. You should not clip the
blood
feathers because they will bleed profusely and cause the bird a lot of
pain,
stress, and blood loss. It is best to wait until the feathers are fully
mature
before clipping the wings again.
Some
birds are very strong fliers and may still be able to
fly even after being clipped. So, do not risk taking the bird outside,
trusting
the wing clip, only to have something suddenly scare your bird, and
cause it to
fly off into the wild blue yonder. You will be left standing there with
your
mouth open, thinking --\"But, ....But,...s/he was clipped!\" I have
seen it happen, with no matter as to the tameness of the bird. Just as
a side
thought, please do not put those nasty leg chains on your bird. They
will
invariably lead to a broken leg.
Trimming
your birds\' nails also serves several purposes.
When their nails become too long perching is uncomfortable and it may
lead to
more serious foot problems. Long sharp nails are also uncomfortable to
you when
your bird perches on your bare skin. Long nails may also become snagged
in
toys, clothing or on a cage and can result in serious leg or foot
injuries.
When
trimming your bird\'s nails it is important to remember
that each nail has a blood and a nerve supply called the quick.
Remember that
the quick grows with the nail and an overgrown nail will have a longer
quick.
If you trim the nail too far back and cut the quick, it will bleed and
will be
painful to the bird. Any amount of blood loss, however small, is
significant
and should be stopped immediately with pressure and a styptic compound.
The
beak also has a quick like the nails and the same
precautions should be considered when correcting the beak length. If
your bird
has plenty of toys to chew on, a Polly Perfect or lava rock perch to
rub its
beak on, and its beak is growing normally, it should not be necessary
to trim
the beak. It may be necessary, however, to file the tip with an emery
board or
nail file to dull the point or shorten its length slightly. If the beak
is
growing too fast or growing abnormally, you should see your avian
veterinarian
to determine the cause and cure.
Wing,
nail and beak trimming are simple procedures. If you
are inexperienced with how to perform them, then have your avian
veterinarian
show you the proper instruments needed and the correct method of
trimming. Once
you have done it a few times it becomes easier. I recommend, however,
that
owners let others do the grooming so their bird does not become
distrustful to
the owner.
Grooming
How to
Potty Train Birds
By Dr.
Greg Burkett
Board
Certified Avian Veterinarian
Although
bird poop has no odor, and is relatively harmless,
few people are willing to venture into public with it on their shoulder
for
friends to notice and say \"Hey, I\'ll bet you have a pet bird\". True
bird
lovers understand that occasionally one will be pooped on by their
loving pet
and they accept it with grace and dignity. I am one of those people.
Nonetheless, I believe that all pets should be well mannered, and
pooping on
people is not good manners. Therefore, I feel that potty training
should be
employed for a happier coexistence with your pet bird.
It is
true that you can potty train your bird. Don\'t expect
your bird to return to its cage when it has to eliminate but, it will
be able
hold it for reasonable about of time until you can get it to a place
that it is
allowed to drop.
The
principle behind this training technique is that your
bird needs to relieve itself every 15 to 20 minutes. The technique is
simple.
Each time you take your bird out of its cage, immediately place the
bird onto
its playpen. As you are waiting for the bird to drop, repeat a key word
that
you will use to trigger the event. I use \"Dump\". One of our customers
says \"Do your Poopie\". Missy uses \"Go Poo Poo\". Any word
you choose will work. The key words are important because they will be
a cue to
let your bird know what you expect. If your bird does not go within 2
to 3
minutes, take the bird off of the playpen for a couple of minutes. Then
place
the bird back onto the playpen until it goes. Repeat the process until
the bird
poops. Your bird is not allowed off of the perch for any extended
period of
time until it has dropped. The bird\'s reward is getting off of the
perch to be
with you. Lots of verbal and physical praise is important when they go
where
they are supposed to go. While the bird is out of its cage, it is
important to
return it to the playpen every 15 to 20 minutes, make it stay there,
and repeat
the key word until the bird drops. When your bird poops, its reward is
coming
off of the playpen to be with you and to receive more praise and
petting. Once
your bird begins to recognize the key word, you can say it before you
remove
your bird from the cage and he will learn to poop before he comes out.
Utilizing
this technique, being patient, being persistent,
and keeping on schedule will potty train your bird in 2 to 3 weeks.
Potty
trained does not mean that your bird will return to the cage or playpen
to
poop. Potty trained means that the bird will hold its poops for a
reasonable
period of time (30 to 45 minutes depending on the size of the bird)
until it is
put in a proper place to relieve itself (on a playpen or in its cage).
Potty
trained also means that your bird should poop on command by using the
key words
mentioned earlier. This is very handy when you take your bird to
friends\' or
families\' homes. You should be able to hold your bird over a sink,
trash can,
or other appropriate receptacle and tell the bird to poop, thereby
leaving the
friends, family and carpet free of unwanted poop stains. This technique
works!
How to
Potty Train Bird
By Dr.
Greg Burkett
How
Big is Your Bird\'s Cage?
One of
the most common problems in parrot-keeping today is
not providing our feathered friends with the size of cage they need.
Housing a
bird in an undersized cage can lead to all of the worst behavioral
problems
found in pet birds: screaming, phobic behavior, biting and aggression,
and
feather plucking. A common misconception is that a cage is a place of
confinement. We do not think of a cage as a place of confinement but as
a home
and comfort zone, similar to the way we view our own homes. This is
where the
food is kept and where the familiar water bottle hangs. When a parrot
is under
stress, you will probably notice that he or she is most relieved when
returned
to its cage. Pet birds spend a vast majority of their time housed
within these
four walls.
Just
think, if you just take the amount of time you are not
at home (when the bird should not be left out of its cage) and add it
to the number
of hours the bird needs to rest and sleep (at least 12), the average
bird will
be in its cage at least twenty hours a day and sometimes more. Leaving
the
bird\'s door open or not confining a bird at all is extremely dangerous
and
totally unacceptable. A person is inviting disaster when ignoring this
important rule of thumb.
The
reasons a bird needs a cage are many. First of all, they
need a wide variety of perches to keep their legs and feet properly
exercised.
They need different textures as well as diferent diameters. It is very
difficult to provide a bird with adequate perches on a playpen. Even if
you are
able to provide them, the parrot will spend the vast majority of its
time on
the highest perch. When the bird is in its cage, it is more secure and
comfortable and will use all of its perches at some point in the course
of a
day, not just the highest one. At the very least your bird will play
with
different toys and venture to its food and water sources. Also, when
the bird
is on the top perch of a playpen, where are the toys hanging? You could
tie one
to a rope connected to the high perch but it tends to get pooped on,
and even
then it is only one toy. They need a variety of toys just like they
need a
variety of perches.
For
the sake of argument, let\'s assume the parrot had all
the proper perches and toys in a playpen setting and actually used
them. It\'s
not completely unheard of, but it begs the question: Where is the bird
getting
its water? All parrots should be drinking from water bottles, not water
bowls,
and I have yet to see a playpen with an apparatus to support a drinking
bottle.
If you would like more information on water bottles, Dr. Greg has
written an
article that can be picked up at Diamond Avian at no charge. The point
is, it
is impossible to provide a pet bird with a proper, safe, and
comfortable living
environment without a cage. The most obvious consideration when
selecting a
cage is the size of the bird. Parrots need to be able to flap their
wings and
stretch them out to full wingspan.
A
factor that often gets overlooked when looking at cages is
that these cages will be occupied by not only the parrot but also food
bowls,
three to four perches, at least three toys and with whatever else the
owner
decides to spoil the bird. These objects, while absolutely necessary,
dramatically cut down the amount of open space in the cage. Another
important
determinant is the bird\'s activity level. You will notice some
discrepancies
between birds and the size of the cage required. A good example is a
parrotlet.
If you have ever spent time around parrotlets, you know that they
rarely stop
to catch their breath. They are very playful and are rarely in a state
of rest.
For these reasons, they need a larger sized cage than the slightly
larger
budgie that has only a moderate activity level.
Round
cages cannot be used. They do not give your pet a
point of reference and will can lead psychological problems. Also, the
vast
majority of commercial parrot products are not made to attach to a
curved
surface. If you are having any problems with your parrot, look closely
at its
cage size. This is often the root of many different problems. If you
currently
have a cage that is too small, use the suggestions below as guidelines
and you
will be on your way to an improved relationship with your pet bird!
Minimum
Cage Size and Maximum Bar Spacing Budgies
Parrotlets, Lovebirds - 18\"x18\" with 1/2\"
Cockatiels
- 20\" x 20\" with 1/2\" or 5/8\"
Small
Poicephalus,Conures, Ring-necked Parakeets - 22\"
x 24\" with 5/8\" or 3/4\"
Caiques,
Timnehs, Pionus, Jardine\'s, Small Mini Macaws -
24\" x 24\" with 3/4\" or 1\"
Small
Amazons, African Greys - 32\" x 23\" with
1\" or 1 1/4\"
Mini
Macaws, Cockatoos and Amazons - 36\" x 24\"
with 1\" or 1 1/2\"
Large
Macaws, Large Cockatoos - 3\' x 4\' with 1 or 1 1/2\"
If
your bird was not listed, find one of similar size and
use that as a base but be sure to take into account the activity level
of the
species.
How
Big is Your Bird\'s Cage?
HOW
TO SWITCH YOUR PARROT FROM SEED TO PELLETS
by
R. Gregory Burkett, DVM
Diet
is the most important factor in your
bird’s
life. A poor diet can be the underlying
cause
of many health problems. Pellets are
the
only diet that can offer complete and balanced
nutrition.
Your bird’s diet should be
at
least 90% pellets. The remaining 10% can
be
any treat. Fruits, vegetables, pasta, rice,
beans,
seed, and many other foods are acceptable
treats.
Persistence is the key to a better
diet
for your bird. You must first believe that
you
are doing the best for your bird. If you
will
follow this method your bird will be eating
pellets
in two to four weeks.
1.
You need to have two food bowls in the
cage.
One bowl should be near the highest
perch.
The other bowl should be lower, near
the
cage bottom. In the high cup put
Roudybush.
The Roudybush bowl is to stay
in
the cage as the high bowl at all times. In
the
lower bowl put seeds or your bird’s usual
diet.
2.
When giving seeds in the lower dish, give
only
enough seed that can be eaten in one
sitting.
I recommend giving only 1 tablespoon
of
seeds. Fill the Roudybush bowl half
way.
3.
Seeds are to be given in the morning and
in
the evening. Afternoon, the seed bowl is
removed,
and a treat is offered. This treat
can
be any of the above mentioned foods. If
your
bird does not eat other foods, another
dish
of seed should be given. The process will
take
longer if this is the case.
Do
Not Mix Pellets With Seeds.
4.
A
routine should now be established:
Small
amount of seeds in the
morning
and evening, a treat in the afternoon,
and
Roudybush available at
all
times. Maintain this routine for 1
week.
Meanwhile, observe your bird
to
see if he is consuming the pellets.
5.
When
you notice that he is eating
pellets,
then discontinue the seeds in
the
morning. Instead, give Roudybush
in
the lower bowl (and in the higher
bowl),
give the treat in the afternoon
and
give the evening seed meal, but
give
fewer seeds at this time.
6.
Continue
to observe your bird and
weigh
him if possible. If you determine
that
your bird is consuming pellets
consistently
and maintaing his
weight,
then we recommend that you
discontinue
the seeds completely and
continue
monitoring
7.
Utilize
the following coaxing hints
to
assist you in this conversion.
Some
Helpful Hints to Coax Conversion:
A)
It
helps to role play with your bird
when
you are trying to get him to try
new
things. You can pretend to be eating
the
new food and that you are very
excited.
Then offer some of it to your
housemate
in front of your bird. When
you
see your bird is interested, then
offer
him some.
B)
Birds
prefer to eat in flocks. At meal times
bring
your bird out of the cage to dine with
you.
Have a bowl of Roudybush at the table
to
offer your bird and to pretend to eat and
pass
around to the other flock members.
Your
bird can also be given some of your
table
food at this time.
At
this point your bird can be considered to
be
on Roudybush. You should wait for at
least
a several days before giving seed as a
treat
until you know there is full conversion
without
fear of de-conversion back to seed.
Some
Important Points to Consider:
A)
It
is very important to monitor your bird’s
droppings
during and after the conversion
process.
If the droppings turn to a dark green
or
black, then it is an indication that he is
not
eating enough. At this point give a little
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